I’ve been thinking a lot about regional burger styles lately, mostly because I’m experimenting with cooking less meat and haven’t eaten one in over a month. And when I heard Seattle resident Kenji Lopez-Alt reference an “Oklahoma City” burger on a recent episode of the Special Sauce podcast, it raised a few curious questions. First, what the heck is an Oklahoma City burger? Did the city steal the style from Seattle along with our NBA franchise? And if the city doesn’t already have a regional burger identity, what would Seattle’s look like?
First things first. From a handful of burger roundups floating around the Internet, I learned that an Oklahoma City burger is a thin griddled patty into which onions are smashed during cooking. As the story goes, a chef at the Hamburger Inn in Ardmore, Oklahoma, invented the style during the Depression to help stretch the expensive ground beef he had on hand into a bigger burger. The smashed onion patty soon caught on in El Reno, just outside Oklahoma City, and eventually became popular elsewhere in the region.
You probably won’t be surprised to learn that many corners of America claim their own regional burger styles based on common toppings available locally. Sometimes these are added directly to the grilled meat, but they can also be slathered onto the bun. In your travels you might encounter a California burger with avocado or guacamole, a Southern burger with pimento cheese, a New Mexico cheeseburger with green chiles, or even a Missouri goober burger with peanut butter.
But more intriguing to me are the examples of regional burger styles that, like the Oklahoma City burger, involve transforming the meat itself, either through cooking techniques besides grilling, or by adding ingredients to the patty. Here are a few versions you might seek out on your next visit to these places:
- The Juicy Lucy, invented in Minnesota, is a burger patty that’s stuffed with melted cheese, usually American or cheddar
- The butter burger, a Wisconsin creation, has butter mixed into the patty before cooking, with more butter added on top of the burger as well as on the bun
- The Mississippi Slugburger mixes bread crumbs or other extenders like flour and soy meal into the patty
- The Connecticut steamed cheeseburger cooks the burger in a steaming cabinet rather than on a grill
- The Frita Cubana, originally from Cuba but widely available in Miami, is a thin patty seasoned with paprika and cumin (and then topped with thin-cut potatoes, raw onions, and ketchup)
- The Tennessee deep-fried burger is smashed to a thin patty and then fried in oil
So what’s Seattle’s quintessential burger style? There are any number of candidates for the best burger in the city. My favorites include the mushroom burger at Uneeda Burger, topped with gruyere and truffle aioli, the Big Max at Eden Hill Provisions, with patties that are a mixture of wagyu brisket, dry aged beef, and bacon, and the Rough Draft smashburger I still need to try and recreate at home.
Still, while these are all great burgers, none of them seem ubiquitous enough to represent a distinctive Seattle style. I wonder if the lack of a singular burger identity is a symptom of a larger question about what makes Seattle truly Seattle. Is there a burger we should name after Mt. Rainier? One that’s inspired by tech companies like Microsoft and Amazon? Or should some enterprising chef develop a Juneuary burger to commemorate our gloomiest season?
With apologies to the Dick’s Deluxe, maybe the quintessential Seattle burger isn’t a hamburger at all. Considering our abundance of seafood, maybe it’s actually a salmon burger. Or perhaps the regional style we should claim is the teriyaki chicken burger, influenced by the city’s large Asian population.
But until someone invents the archetypal Seattle burger, we might be left taking our cue from the Seattle Dog, which as late-night Capitol Hill revelers and stadiumgoers know, is a hot dog topped with cream cheese and sauteed onions. I’d suggest that a burger with these toppings should be known as a Seattle Burger.
And, with a nod to Oklahoma City for having its own regional burger style (and a middle finger for stealing our NBA franchise), I have the perfect name for the Seattle-style burger. From now on, let’s call it the SuperSonic.
Do you have a favorite regional burger style, or a nomination for a Seattle-style burger? Leave a comment and let me know!
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3 thoughts on “Regional Burgers and the Search for a Seattle Style”
I’ll second your suggestion for the teriyaki burger (or teriyaki chicken burger) as Seattle’s burger. I figure it has to be something available at Dick’s or Red Robin, is a long-lasting menu item, is available at other burger places, and is something that is Seattle-oriented (eg not a bbq burger).
I’m not even a sports person, but I can totally get behind the SuperSonic. Can there be a seasonal Juneuary burger too?
Classic burgers in Seattle seem to share a connection around relish and mayo. They characterize the Dick’s Deluxe, and Burgermaster’s namesake also sports relish instead of pickles (but with a choice of condiments). The Deluxe from Pick-Quick has a mayo-based sauce with relish mixed in. That kind of “special” sauce seems to be pretty standard at the newer places, and Aioli and Japanese mayo are both common too. Classic burgers from other parts of the country tend to come with mustard, sometimes accompanied by ketchup. That seems pretty rare here, with mustard often missing from burger menus entirely. But perhaps the most defining trend at local burger joints doesn’t even involve burgers: it has to be unique taste for fries and tartar sauce. Yet another mayo-based sauce, often with relish! So I’d say Seattle style is a cheeseburger with mayo or a mayo-based sauce, served with fries and tartar sauce.